Building character

Life in a country not your own builds character.

It's not always easy living in another country or another culture.

I'm talking about speaking and thinking in a second language. Cultural differences (personal space, stares, etc). Power outages. Being so hot and humid that you are perpetually in a pool of your own sweat. Not having potable drinking water, and thus encountering the ever-fun experience of running out of drinking water and having to boil water or wait until morning to buy some. Lack of resources. Mosquitoes all but draining you. Finding yourself, for the first time, daydreaming about beds and couches.

But, for me, it has always been worthwhile.

Why? Well, for one, living in a truly beautiful place. Adventures you could never dream up or imagine. The richness of hugs, of color, of sound, of a life moving to a Brega-Samba beat. Being welcomed in ways unimaginable. New friends going out of their way to help us grow in our life here. Living close to the ocean (!!). Greetings of kisses on the cheek. Breaking down stereotypes. A place that values relationships over monetary success. Three hour lunch breaks. Cross-cultural discussions full of respect and mutual curiosity. Learning so much about others. Learning so much about myself.

Truly the hardships, in the end, are trivial. I can complain (and do, trust me), but you shut yourself up pretty quickly when you think of (and see) how much of the world has got it worse than you. It is an exercise in gratitude and humility - my small, small, daily annoyances make me A) grateful for resources I am afforded at home, B) reflect on what is truly important, and C) ground me in an aspiration to live an un-cluttered life in the service of others (I say 'aspiration', because, let's be honest, I spend an inordinate amount of time on pinterest these days).

So, in the end, I say that living in a country not your own builds character. I wouldn't give up this experience for all the comfy beds and air conditioning in the world.

P.S. Having said that, one of my very best friends in the world, Mira Cummins, got married on Friday and I would have killed to be there. Missing people back home is one of those non-trivial difficulties. But thanks to skype (an abroad-ers best friend), I was able to talk to her on her big day!

Love you guys!

Cliffs notes from a perpetually inept blogger

"Maria, your blog is dead." 

"No it's not! I'm just... behind. There is so much to tell."

"It's been three months."

Truth. I concede victory to my blogging-superior husband. This blog post will attempt to condense April-May-June into one, nice, gift-wrapped sample of life. I sincerely hope this is the last of these 3 month lapses, but truly, only time will tell.

Updates:  

Teaching: April was spent co-teaching several courses, my favorite being English Phonetics and Phonology. I'm a huge nerd when it comes to this stuff (I did undergraduate research in sociolinguistics and phonetics), so it was really fun to be able to co-teach and work on pronunciation with the students. In May, the Federal University where I work went on strike. So, without classes, or means to use classrooms, we began giving classes in our home. I teach a film club and conversation club, and Jessica teaches a book club. I've also started another blog (in Portuguese) for Brazilians to learn about American English grammar and culture. If you are interested, you can check it out at http://inglesdodiaadia.blogspot.com/ We have a dedicated group of students who earnestly want to keep up their English learning, and we are so pumped to be able to create these flexible courses to keep them practicing their conversation skills. 

 Please ignore my really awesome facial expression in this photo and concentrate solely on how I am molding and shaping young minds. 

 Nerding out in Phonetics class. If you have ever wondered about how we articulate sounds (I know you have!) check out the board behind yours truly.

 Don't you wish you could discuss 'True Grit' or 'Forrest Gump' from the comfort of one or our many plastic chairs?

Short stories discussed over delicious Jessica-made treats (mmmm.... coffee cake)

Side Project: In May, I also finally found a community to work with for my side project. Rosielly, a student of mine (and good friend) introduced me to the community of Marrocos, just outside of town here in Bragança. It is a economically marginalized community that lives around, and works in, the Bragança city dump. We began meeting with the community, listening to their greatest needs, and began working with them to try and address some of these. This community of 500 people has no water, no reliable electricity, no community center, and the nearest school and clinic are 3 and 5 Km away, respectively. The community expressed their greatest need being water, and we have been working with them, raising money to build a well to bring clean water to the community. With the help of amazing and compassionate donors in both the United States, and Brazil, we have raised over $1800; bringing us SO close to our goal of $2000. We cannot begin to express our gratitude and admiration to those of you who have helped or donated!  If you would like to learn more about our project and the community of Marrocos, check out www.projectmarrocos.blogspot.com. If you would like to donate to help bring clean water to Marrocos, click here.

 Testing the water source to make sure that it is safe to drink.

The dump - many people in Marrocos work here in a recycling cooperative, sorting recyclables. The dump is the lifeblood of the community, but the government has plans to close the dump this year. 

Herbie: Anyone that has read Cory's blog knows the epic tale of how we became cat owners (if you havent read it check it out, here). Herbie is growing out of his wonky-eye phase and doin' just fine!

 Herbie is his (her?) prime wonk-eye stage. Pinnacle of scuzzy cuteness. 

All better!

Molly's visit: In June, my sister Molly came to visit for two weeks. It was seriously amazing to see her and spend time with her, getting to know new parts of our region of Brazil at the same time. We did some seriously awesome things: 3 day boat trip up the Amazon river, canoeing through the rainforest, hiking a mini-mountain, riding buffalo, and playing in the ocean, to name a few. I miss her like crazy and I am SO glad she was able to come! For more deets on our adventures with Moldy, check out Cory's blog post here. 

Daylight imbibing and laughter on the boat up the Amazon. 

Canoeing in what our guide referred to as the "Enchanted Forest."

On Ihla do Marajó, there is a buffalo mounted police force. They were kind enough to indulge us with several pictures.

Cory: We joke that Fulbright got their money's worth when hiring me, because they got two ETA's (English Teaching Assistants) for the price of one. Cory is a busy guy here, not to mention holding the title as being the most famous gringo in Bragança. He works in the artisan community of Fazendinha, just outside of town. It is a beautiful, peaceful place, outside of the blaring-car-speaker atmosphere of Bragança. He was interviewed by research students as a visiting artist, and occasionally gives painting classes to children in the neighborhood. In his spare time, he plays on a basketball team, got dengue fever (serious traveler street cred), and continues working on his large-scale mixed media pieces that have to do with the idea of 'place' and how that impacts us and how we come to know it. He is hoping to have a show in Bragança or Belém soon.

 Cory grew a mustache. We took a picture. He shaved it off. 

 Cory and his basketball buds.

 Cory as the invited visiting artist, talking about contemporary art to students.

 Cory in his happy place (a.k.a. Fazendinha).

Cory and his dengue rash.

Bragança: Even though it is constantly 100 degrees Fahrenheit with 90% humidity, even though we are perpetually plagued with swass, even though there is not much to do at night, and even though vegetarian food here still means 'chicken', 'lamb' or 'fish'... I am so genuinely glad to be here in Bragança. Yes, it doesn't have the modern resources of the schools in the south, and everything closes at 8pm. But, what it does have is something that other cities haven't come close to - a true, unadulterated insight into a true Brazilian small city, complete with the most friendly, open and generous people I have ever had to pleasure of meeting. You know those friends who will give you the shirt off their back? I am fairly certain that if I walked up to a complete stranger in the park in Bragança and asked them for theirs, they would not only give it to me, but offer their shoes as well. It's just how they roll. Our whole house is pretty much furnished by donations from friends-of-friends-of-friends. Its a true sense of community, and love is everywhere. And I feel like we are truly making a difference here, which makes the experience (especially when it's so humid you feel like you can chew the air), all the more special and fulfilling. 

 Bragança's colorful fishing boats.

 Cory and our house from the street (the white one).

 Our kitchen at dinnertime.

 Our room!  This model of newlywed suite comes complete with used mattress on floor, and creatively McGuyvered shelf! Small cat sold separately. We love it. 

Bliss.

roots of wanderlust.

Growing up, one of my favorite books was one called "Children Like Me." It was put out by UNICEF and it had different pages devoted to different children around the world.  You learned about their life, where they live, their families and their hobbies.  I would spend hours pouring over it, entranced by the different children's' home countries and cultures. I dreamed of far-off lands and people I longed to meet.

Thus began my early indoctrination into my wanderlust ways.

As I grew older, this love and curiosity about people and places grew into a healthy obsession with non-fiction books and magazines the likes of National Geographic. I was, at times, interested in the articles about animals and advances in technology. But what really captivated me were the stories about people. I have always loved learning, and the thing that always intrigued me most was learning about people, like myself, half a world away. I wondered what their daily life was like, and not from a voyeuristic standpoint- I wanted to experience life.

In the book "Children Like Me", there was a girl named Celina who lived in the Amazon region of Brazil.

 I remember being entranced by her life and her story. Never could I have dreamed as a seven year-old, reading on my stomach on the brown shag carpet, that I would one day be able to visit (and live in!) the region she called home.

My life in Brazil thus far is an utter blessing. I work at UFPA (the Federal University of Para - Braganca campus). I team-teach with some wonderful people, and I am currently team teaching a course on Phonetics and Phonology, which I am so nerdily excited about it's sick. I have drafted a few ideas for mini-courses that I hope to be able to teach while I am here, and I am meeting with the Ministry of Health to begin working with organizations in the community that help combat child prostitution. I have lots of ideas, but need to know what framework is out there to begin implementing it. Basically, I am really itching to get going.

We are blessed with wonderful friends here as well.  In Braganca, if you have a 5 minute conversation with someone, you basically have a new friend.  You are invited over for dinner, to a party, to their aunt's house on the beach, etc. It is of my many perks of life in a small town - you may not have nightlife (or a lot to do, in general), but the people are warm and welcome you with (often literally) open arms.

Oh! And I have begun training for a half-marathon in Rio de Janeiro!  Yay!


Fun facts about Braganca:

- While at the gym with a friend, Vladson, he asked what my usual work-out routine is. I said that I run, life weights etc. He said that women here basically just do exercises to make their butts bigger.  When I told him, self-deprecatingly, that I had no problem in that area, I already had a huge one, he looked me square in the eye and said "Oh yes, they (the women) are very jealous of you." So, chalk one up for the big booty girls!

- At the university we have large, beefy security guards with large, intimidating guns. Their job is to turn on the air conditioning. Literally.

- I never thought that it would happen, but the other day, I was actually cold. It was probably 78 degrees.

- Houses and apartments here come, for the most part, unfurnished. And by unfurnished, I mean, you don't have a fridge, a stove, or a toilet seat. But fear not! Casually mention to your friends that you are lacking said things, and within a month it will all be donated to you from friends of friends of people you just met. The unbelievable kindness of strangers.

I feel so lucky to have been given this amazing opportunity. From my early interests to present work, I have always felt this quote to be very true and special to my heart:


"Grownups have this strange way of putting themselves in compartments and groups. They build up barriers... of religion, of chaste, of color, of party, of nation, of province, of language, of custom, and of wealth and poverty. Thus, they live in prisons of their own making."
- Jawaharlal Nehru

Everything you ever wanted to know about fruit.

Okay, that title was a bit of an exaggeration. But here is an introduction to Amazonia fruit, at least!

The Amazon region is famous for a great many things, not the least of which being it's diversity of flora and fauna. Coming here, I thought I knew fruit. I was wrong. Walking through the market you see dozens upon dozens of varieties of fruit that I had never heard of, never knew existed. I'd like to share with you some of the most popular fruits of my state, Pará.

Fun fact: açaí is pronounced AH - sigh - eee

Brazil nut

Mango

Star fruit

This is what chocolate is made from!

Maria: resident of amazonia, eater of fish

The lights show began, signaling to the now-hushed crowd of college bros, chicks and hipsters that the show was about to begin.  To my delight, four mop-topped middle-aged men emerged to face the crowd of college kids, armed only with guitars, bass, and matching grey suits with black turtlenecks (horrifically out of place in the 85 degree weather).  Whatever doubt I held of their rocking talent, however, quickly evaporated as the band burst into an unbelievable rendition of  "Daytripper."  The crowd went wild, singing along to every word, and suddenly the slightly dorky pentagenarians were full-fledged rock stars, with an adoring 20-something fan base. Amidst the rolicking concert comraderie of Beatlemania, it suddenly hit me:

Am I really in Brazil???

I must admit, this trip so far has been ALL about shattering perceptions. Perceptions that I didn´t even know I held. From São Paulo, we departed to Belém, the capitol city of the state of Pará. A city of 2 million, it is located roughly where the Amazon river meets the ocean. The flight from São Paulo to Belém was an experience of mystical proportions -- looking out the window at the vast Amazon rainforest - nothing but jungle and the mighty Amazon as far as the eye could see.  It was a first-hand Planet Earth-type experience. It wasn't until right before we touched down, that out of the sprawling green carpet of the rainforest emerged a booming metropolis. Right here, in amazonia, I was going to a Beatles cover band concert.  Talk about surreal.

I have read that Brazilians are among the friendliest people in the world, and was told by Paulistano friends (people from the city of São Paulo), that people in the north are the friendliest.  Even armed with this information, I have been (and continue to be) completely blown away by kindness.  From the moment we stepped off the plane in Belém, we were greeted with dozens of students and teachers meeting us at the arrival gate with handmade "WELCOME ETAS!" signs. We were hugged and kissed and shuttled off to our welcome party at the university (the first of many). Armed with little portuguese, and many new friends, we set off to get to know them and our surroundings.

Our first friends (and surrogate mothers) were the teachers with whom we would be working at the university. They have taken their "help the ETA's if the have questions" instruction, to a whole new level (for a more in-depth description of some of these amazing women, please check out Cory's blog at www.floodingbrazil.blogspot.com).They have invited us into their homes, cooked us amazing food, helped us navigate the confusing beurocracy of buying cell phones and registering at the federal police, all with grace and pleasure.  We would be lost without them.

One new mini-endevour I have embarked on while being here could be loosely described as 'broadening my culinary horizons'.  A vegetarian of 7 years, I have to say, I was a little nervous about my options in meat-happy Brazil. I was right. So, I am trying to enter the world of eating fish. This is made simpler by the fact that I live near the amazon, a bunch of other rivers, and the ocean - so fish is, suffice it to say, fresh and abundant. There is also the fact that, if I didn't eat fish here, my options when eating out are limited. And by limited, I mean, non-existant.

"But Maria, why don't you just eat at home and cook your own veggie friendly meals?" you may ask. Well, that brings me to my next topic of interest regarding Brazil: unfurnished apartments/houses. We recently got our own house (Jessica- the other ETA, Cory and I) and it is amazing. Beautiful. Enormous. And empty. In Brazil, 'unfurnished' literally means unfurnished. For example, in our house we don't have a fridge, a stove, or a toilet seat.  Unfurnished. So, until we do find said items, I am at the mercy of the restaurants of Brazil.

After spending some time in Belém, we arrived in Bragança, the city of our placement for the nine months that we will be in Brazil.  It is an beautiful old colonial town at the base of a river adorned with colorful fishing boats. We are the first Fulbright ETA's ever to be placed here, so we are the object of much curiosity. I have never been asked to have pictures taken with me so much in my life (a pseudo celebrity moment compounded by the fact that the students think that Jessica (the other ETA) looks just like Gisele Bündchen). Students are all about Facebook, which is adorably pronounced "Facey-bookie" here (other adorable pronunciations: Hip-Hop = "hippie hoppie", laptop = "lappie toppie" etc.).  Still getting to know my surroundings and making friends, I am getting good vibes from this place.

So far, so good Bragança.

 Some of us ETA's (and Cory) with the university students in Belem

 A heron at the Museo Emilio Goeldi in Belem

I forget what this little guy's name is, but they were all over!

 Giant lily pads at the Museo Emilio Goeldi in Belem

 Turtles!  At the Museo Emilio Goeldi in Belem

Big guy

 Typical paraense meal - fish, rice, farinha, and acai

 Beatlemania!

 Dinner at Silvia's (2nd from left) house with other teachers and ETA's

 Teaching!

 The folk dance that originated in Braganca - the marujada

 More awesome folk dancing

 Us with some of the students

Flag of the state of Para, flag of Brazil, flag of USA, and flag of Braganca